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Augustinians and Capuchins and Sacramentines, Oh My

We thought we had the thick­est fog ever two days ago, but we were wrong. Today’s fog was thicker yet. But this time, after a short walk, we were above the fog, on a ridge of land jut­ting out from … Con­tinue read­ing

Crossing the Alps with Nothing but a Cloak, Staff, and Sandals



The peo­ple of the Mid­dle Ages were not fond of moun­tains. It takes a leisured class with energy to waste and life to spend to appre­ci­ate inac­ces­si­ble rocks where noth­ing grows, places where it is always cold and snowy and … Con­tinue read­ing

Mindless Miles to Memmingen

After a very cold night—the heat­ing gave out halfway through, which I guess qual­i­fies as another “authen­tic” sort of expe­ri­ence, though authen­tic wouldn’t have involved any heat­ing in the first place—we trudged off along the canal again. Bor­ing as ever. … Con­tinue read­ing

Rats, Walls, and Needlemakers: Welcome to Late Medieval Cities

Thomas Hobbes’s famously depress­ing descrip­tion of life in a “state of nature” as “soli­tary, poor, nasty, brutish, and short” has often been applied to describe life in the Mid­dle Ages. From our van­tage point, sit­ting on sofas in climate-controlled homes … Con­tinue read­ing

Luther Was Not a Monk



The decid­edly urban char­ac­ter of Erfurt meant another impor­tant thing for our story: the pres­ence of fri­ars. Luther was not a monk, prop­erly speak­ing, but a friar or bet­ter a her­mit of Saint Augus­tine. He’s respon­si­ble for this error, as … Con­tinue read­ing

Why Luther Went to Rome

Moti­va­tion is one of the most dif­fi­cult things to deter­mine, even for peo­ple who are alive, as any ther­a­pist will tell you. The shelves of Luther biogra­phies have accu­mu­lated more than their fair share of psy­cho­an­a­lysts. And not with­out rea­son. … Con­tinue read­ing

Where Luther Slept

We can’t know with any great cer­tainty where Luther stepped for each of the 1500 km he walked dur­ing the six weeks of his south­ward jour­ney. And even if we did, the chances that we could still walk in his steps would be pretty slim. He would have kept to major roads—really only muddy cart paths at the time. The prob­lem is that many of these have become today’s roads and high­ways: hardly routes con­ducive to a pleas­ant walk.

We can know with a bit more cer­tainty, how­ever, where he laid his head at night. Con­tinue read­ing

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