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Photos, Day 46, Berceto-Pontrimoli

Photos, Day 45, Sivizzano-Berceto

Marble Quarries and Not Much Else

First, a sta­tis­ti­cal note: we have been on the road 50 days now, and today is 10–10–10. In the morn­ing Andrew, Zeke, and I walked through a silent La Spezia to the camper and then we all rode back to … Con­tinue read­ing

First Glimpses of the Mediterranean

Yes­ter­day morn­ing we headed out of Aulla, this time with Jed, Andrew’s older brother, keep­ing us com­pany. It was an induc­tion into the pil­grim­age life not for the faint of heart, or faint of calf mus­cle! We did nearly half … Con­tinue read­ing

Grape Must and Whiffs of Vinegar

It was a har­row­ing exit from town. I remain aston­ished at what is con­sid­ered a legit­i­mate hik­ing route on the Via Fran­ci­gena. The Alpine club routes are great, but the highways-with-no-shoulder are a night­mare. On the other hand, fear for … Con­tinue read­ing

The Mycological Wonderland and Other First Impressions of Tuscany

We pulled out yes­ter­day morn­ing at 7:40 a.m., our ear­li­est depar­ture yet, under blue skies but headed toward a mas­sive pile of clouds squat­ting over the moun­tains peaks. Our ascent was quick and steep up to the first pass, the … Con­tinue read­ing

Wild Plums and Tame Peaches

A fierce wind blew through last night, wash­ing away the pitter-patter of rain­drops on the roof of the camper. We woke up actu­ally able to see the scenery around us—and it was gor­geous! We are up in the Apen­nines now … Con­tinue read­ing

Italian Rain is Just as Wet as German Rain

Last night we had a pow­wow and this morn­ing we made the final exec­u­tive deci­sion to skip ahead a day on our sched­ule. Look­ing to our planned route we real­ized, from our errors in the Alps, that we had not … Con­tinue read­ing

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